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| − | Wanted to update my mod tutorial and the wiki just has such a nice way of doing things :V it's hard to do this only in notecards on SL from start to finish.
| + | ==Testing Changelog== |
| − | ==Modding Tutorial v2== | + | {{changelog |
| − | <pre>My goal with this guide is to allow people to get into modding seawolf avatars. It can be intimidating to edit a complex avatar, maybe even frustraiting to have to figure everything out. But hopefully you won't have to invent the wheel all over again and just piggyback on some tips from others that have messed with these dragon avatars for quite some time.
| + | |item=necessitypack |
| | + | |version=4.0 |
| | + | |blog=http://krafties.com/blog/?p=606}} |
| | | | |
| − | I will try to make this guide easy to read and understand without too much trouble. But basic object editing skills would be expected from you, but tips will be included that might be useful or just reminders. You could use any size of seawolf dragon and mix it with anything you'd like, but this guide will essentially be a tutorial on how to create a "nightfury" by combinging two avatars (which will not be included, you will need to purchase them yourself)
| + | ==Testing Message Box== |
| | + | Trying to make message boxes like on other wikis without Lua script extension ([[Mediawikiwiki:Extension:Scribunto|Extension:Scribunto]]). |
| | | | |
| − | ● INCLUDED ●
| + | *[[Template:Mbox|Mbox]] |
| − | Modding Guide
| + | *[[Template:Message box|Message box]] |
| − | • READ ME FIRST! How to use safetypin + editing tips
| |
| − | • Seawolf Modding Tutorial: Head and Jaw
| |
| − | • Seawolf Modding Tutorial: Chest and Wings
| |
| − | • Seawolf Modding Tutorial: Hips and Tail
| |
| − | • Seawolf Modding Tutorial: Using the livery system
| |
| | | | |
| | + | {{ambox|protect}} |
| | + | Number of pages in 'Templates' Category: {{PAGESINCATEGORY:Templates}} |
| | | | |
| − | ● EXTRAS ●
| + | *{{#switch: {{SUBPAGENAME}} |
| − | • Safetypin Posestands for Seawolf Avatars
| + | | sandbox |
| − | • Extra guides to modifying </pre>
| + | | testcases = {{BASEPAGENAME}} |
| | + | | #default = {{PAGENAME}} |
| | + | }} |
| | + | *{{#switch: {{SUBJECTSPACE}} |
| | + | | {{ns:0}} |
| | + | | {{ns:File}} |
| | + | | {{ns:MediaWiki}} |
| | + | | {{ns:Category}} = {{TALKSPACE}} |
| | + | | #default = {{SUBJECTSPACE}} |
| | + | }} |
| | + | *[[Special:Prefixindex/{{#if:{{{page|}}}|{{{page}}}|{{FULLPAGENAME}}}}/|{{{1|all subpages of this page}}}]] |
| | | | |
| − | ===stuff=== | + | <!--- snip of documentation/core ----> |
| − | <pre>Thank you for actually reading the "READ ME FIRST" | + | {{documentation/core |
| | + | | heading = {{{heading|¬}}} <!--Empty but defined means no header--> |
| | + | | heading-style = {{{heading-style|}}} |
| | + | | content = {{{content|}}} |
| | + | | link box = {{{link box|}}} <!--So "link box=off" works--> |
| | | | |
| − | There are some things you will want to keep in mind when modifying a seawolf avatar, because it relies on scripts and prim names to function properly.
| + | | docpage = |
| | + | {{#if: {{{1|}}} |
| | + | | {{{1|}}} |
| | + | | {{{docspace|{{NAMESPACE}}}}}:{{{template page|{{PAGENAME}}}}}/doc |
| | + | }} |
| | + | | doc exist = |
| | + | {{#ifexist: |
| | + | {{#if: {{{1|}}} |
| | + | | {{{1|}}} <!--Other docname fed--> |
| | + | | {{{docspace|{{NAMESPACE}}}}}:{{{template page|{{PAGENAME}}}}}/doc |
| | + | }} |
| | + | | yes |
| | + | }} |
| | + | | docname fed = |
| | + | {{#if: {{{1|}}} |
| | + | | yes |
| | + | }} |
| | | | |
| − | ● MAKE BACKUPS! ●
| + | | sandbox = |
| − | I cannot repeat this too often: CREATE BACKUPS before you attempt to link/unlink items or mess with names/descriptions that might be important to scripts within the avatar. It can be very frustrating when your modding attempt fails and you have to start over from scratch because it was your only copy of the piece. This frustration can be easily avoided even if you think you are on a good roll.
| + | {{{docspace|{{NAMESPACE}}}}}:{{{template page|{{PAGENAME}}}}}/sandbox |
| | + | | testcases = |
| | + | {{{docspace|{{NAMESPACE}}}}}:{{{template page|{{PAGENAME}}}}}/testcases |
| | | | |
| − | ● ROOT PRIM! ●
| + | | template page = |
| − | What is a root prim? It is essentially the center of the item, when you view contents of an item it is always looking at the contents of the root prim specifically unless you are using "edit linked" to select individual prims of the item. It is very important that the correct prim stays as the "root", and there is a easy way to control this.
| + | {{NAMESPACE}}:{{{template page|{{PAGENAME}}}}} |
| − | • The root will always be the last prim you selected before linking the pieces together
| |
| − | • If the last piece was an object, then the root of that object will be the root of the whole object after linking.
| |
| − | • The root prim will be outlined in a different color than the rest, so it stands out.
| |
| | | | |
| − | ● REFRESHING SCRIPTS! ●
| + | }} |
| − | Sometimes it is important to refresh scripts to make them notice what has changed in the object they are located in. But it can also ruin an object because it could loose track of it's information. A big example of this would be when prims shrink/disappear whenever they are not supposed to be visible. This is a handy feature because then your avatar isn't taking alot of invisible space (try viewing transparent to check this) because it can be in the way. But refreshing a script that is keeping track of the original proportions of a prim while the prims are being shrunked down will result in them being stuck that way because the script will not remember how to restore them correctly.
| |
| − | • Sometimes scripts keep track of information which will be lost when refreshed, so be sure to make a backup of the item.
| |
| − | • When refreshing scripts in objects that alter the size of a prim when hidden (shrink them), be sure that all prims are in their original position/size before doing so, else the script will lose track of them.
| |
| − | • Refresh is sometimes important to make the script notice the edits you've done, specially if you were linking/unlinking prims.
| |
| | | | |
| − | ● SAFETYPIN! ●
| + | ====Message Box Experiements ==== |
| − | This unique posestand which is also the only set of posestands available to seawolf avatars is a wonderful item for modding. Being a posestand is just the basic thing it does. It's magic lies in the "safetypin" script that is included with the stand. It serves to keep track of the position of an item in relation to how it is worn. But these functions require you to have the correct posestand rezzed which matches your avatar type, else things might seem a bit off using this function.
| + | {{Mbox}} |
| | | | |
| − | • Use it to position your objects above the posestand so you can start modding right away:
| + | ==Experiment with floating div== |
| − | You can put the script into worn objects, then detach them and rez: This reposition the item for you above the posestand to appear just as when you wore it.
| + | Try resizing the window |
| − | • Don't waste time re-positioning your new mod:
| |
| − | You can put the script into a rezzed object that you have positioned above the posestand. Then when you pick up the object and wear it, it will reposition it on your avatar to match how it was on the posestand.
| |
| − | • Changing attachment points:
| |
| − | If you happened to position an object perfectly on your avatar but realize too late that it was on the wrong attachment point? Safetypin will safe you the bother of having to reposition everything again on a new attachment point. Just put the "safetypin" script into the object before detaching it and re-attach it onto the desired attachment point, the script will reposition it for you! Alot of time saved.
| |
| | | | |
| − | ● WINGS PRIMS! ●
| + | <div style="width:100%;height:400px;float:left;border:1px solid #000;background:cornflowerblue">Header</div> |
| − | Some people might not be aware of this, but the seawolf dragon avatars transform their arms into wings when flying. The avatar makes use of "show/hide" of specific prims so you might not notice this change. When you land on the ground the "arm wing" will transform back into arm pieces while shrinking/hiding the actual wing prims so they will not be phisically in the way.
| + | <div style="min-width:400px;max-width:900px;min-height:400px;float:left;border:1px solid #000;background:cornflowerblue">box1{{clear}} |
| − | • This makes editing the arms a bit tricky because once you rez the pieces, the wing prims will return to their original size.
| + | {{Navigation}}</div> |
| − | • Using the "safetypin" will make easy work of arranging the arm pieces (and any other bodypart for that matter) so you can easily modify it without becoming disoriented by their size.
| + | <div style="width:400px;min-height:400px;float:right;border:1px solid #000;background:cornflowerblue">box2</div> |
| − | • Be sure to make backups when editing the arm pieces, specially if you are unlinking the wings. Root matters.
| + | <div style="width:100%;height:400px;float:left;border:1px solid #000;background:cornflowerblue">Footer</div> |
| − | | |
| − | ● THE LIVERY SYSTEM ●
| |
| − | This is the coloring HUD system of the seawolf avatars. The word itself describes the color uniform of airplanes, which is quite fitting for a large flying creature like the seawolf dragons. This system basically just reads the name of each prim, if the name matches the livery system it will be "livery enabled" as I like to call it. But if you do not want to loose the original textures of your modded parts, then you might want to be skip making it livery enabled.
| |
| − | | |
| − | • The livery system is important to control the show/hide of wing prims when flying.
| |
| − | • You can make use of the livery system to show/hide prims without being recolored by the system (use "wing" or "arm" as prim names depnding on when you want them to show/hide). This allows you to add custom wings and accessories to the avatar by simply using the livery system.
| |
| − | • Keep in mind that since the hips and hindlegs do not have wing prims, so the hip liverie script does not support the "wing/arm" for show/hide.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ● MISC FOLDER ●
| |
| − | There is a misc. folder included with the avatar, within it are handy tools and toys for modding.d
| |
| − | | |
| − | • Collar scripts!
| |
| − | This allows you to create an object that moves with the neck. One version moves the whole object, the other allows you to reposition individual prims between the positions. Detailed instructions are included.
| |
| − | • Wingless modkit
| |
| − | A script with instructions that will unlink and delete all the wing prims for you to create a wingless dragon. It includes a custom AO that will use the swimming animations to replace the normal flight animations.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ● WEBSITE!
| |
| − | They have a official website which covers the Seawolf avatars in detail, including changelogs, usage guides, customization guides among other things. This is both for the seawolf dragons as well as gryphons
| |
| − | www.seawolf-monsters.com
| |
| − | | |
| − | • /Saving Mods
| |
| − | Update guide for changing v1.3 avatar to v1.4 (only the chest and hips needed to be updated)
| |
| − | Update guide for changing v1.4 avatar to v1.5 (this was update improves the show/hide of prims when flying, since SL managed to break that).
| |
| − | • /Customization Guide
| |
| − | If you want to create custom animations for the dragon avatars, then they have a ZIP file for you containing the BVH files that are the base pose for each size of dragon.
| |
| − | • /Custom Primwork
| |
| − | A detailed list of what prim names the livery system responds to and what they do.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ● 3RD PARTY PRODUCTS
| |
| − | There is a great number of things you can find on the marketplace for customizing your dragon and bring it to life. My personal favorites would be the works of Callak Skytower (his shop is called "Oddity Productions")
| |
| − | | |
| − | https://marketplace.secondlife.com/stores/60062
| |
| − | | |
| − | • /Acrobatic Flight (saddle)
| |
| − | He created a saddle/flight inspired by IoW (Isle of Wyrms). If you like flying naturally or want to let others take the reins and guide you, then this product is awesome. It can be worn with a visible saddle harness which allows you to take passangers and optionally let them take control, but you can also just use the item without a worn saddle to fly with grace (with some practice).
| |
| − | | |
| − | • /Live! AO for seawolf dragons
| |
| − | Tired of being compared to a statue? This AO really brings your dragon to life. It has subtle breathing animations, dance movements (with adjustable rythim speed) and sit poses, among other things.
| |
| − | | |
| − | • /Curly Tail
| |
| − | This item will make your tail curl around you when sitting, it is a one size fit all! And you can mod it of course.
| |
| − | </pre> | |
| − | | |
| − | ==Seawolf Modding Tutorial== | |
| − | <pre>This tutorial is for creating a custom mod for Seawolf Dragons, and will be using the Kinzart Dawn/Midnight dragon as an example, while creating a feral Night-Fury.
| |
| − | | |
| − | The Tutorial itself is free so feel free to share it with your friends, we need more Night-Furies on SL.
| |
| − | | |
| − | The only thing missing would be the scripts needed for the Stage3 of the tutorial. But you get the scripts included with the tutorial when bought at a vendor/marketplace for $50L.
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| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | NOTICE: Since Im always working on improving my tutorial and make it easier to use, feel free to contact me (MyraMidnight) if you have any trouble with it. Or simply to ask if there is a newer version of the tutorial, the version is in the description of each notecard.
| |
| − | | |
| − | You can ask for a newer version of the tutorial, even if you didn't buy the full set, but you will only get the tutorial, not the scripts.
| |
| − | _____________________________________
| |
| − | FOR THIS NIGHT FURY MOD YOU NEED
| |
| − |
| |
| − | A Seawolf Dragon (JUVENILE is the perfect size)
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| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | A Midnight/Dawn dragon from Kinzart.
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | Some modding skills (not included)
| |
| − |
| |
| − | And for some finishing touches:
| |
| − | You can maybe find a freebie NF breath at this place:
| |
| − | | |
| − | __________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | TUTORIAL:
| |
| − | | |
| − |
| |
| − | Creating a head/jaw that works with seawolf dragon. (universal).
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| − | | |
| − |
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| − | Make a flexy tail for the Night Fury.
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| − | | |
| − |
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| − | Make a prim tail for the Night Fury (might need scripts).
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| − | | |
| − |
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| − | Continue from Stage2b. Make it livery enabled. (need scripts)
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| − | | |
| − |
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| − | A extra stage, how to create a decal layer.
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| − | | |
| − |
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| − | How to use the scripts included with the Tutorial (when bought).
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| − | | |
| − | __________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | I hope this tutorial will help you make a custom mod, a night fury, or anything you come up with yourself.
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| − | | |
| − | USEFUL NOTES:
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| − | Liveries, Backup Save, Camera Controls, Linking, Un-linking.
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| − | | |
| − | LIVERIES:
| |
| − | For those who don't know it yet, liveries is the color system you use to color your dragon via the HUD. Liveries actually means uniform. Its fun to know that the liveries you save on your HUD get saved on a server, so even if you get a fresh new HUD, you keep your liveries.
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| − | | |
| − | BACKUP SAVE:
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| − | If you select all the objects of the head together (using SHIFT key to select multiple objects) before linking, and TAKE COPY, you can make a backup of the setup without linking. The icon in the inventory should be a box with a missing piece in it, unlike a single object being a whole box.So when you rez it, you don't have to position them all again. Good as a backup before linking, if something goes wrong or not like you were planning.
| |
| − | | |
| − | So make a backup before linking, to be on the safe notes, its harder to take it apart afterwards. And ALWAYS STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING as some scripts behave different after linking and will mess up things in ways you might not have expected.
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| − | | |
| − | # CAMERA CONTROLS:
| |
| − | For those who don't know how to move the camera in the many ways it can, then this is a good trick to know. You can use this to move your camera into the object to help you select things not visible from the outside. To do this, do not look at the object you want to go into, but someplace else (you cant seem to be able to see into the object you focus on).
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| − | | |
| − | ALT key will let you zoom the camera with the mouse and rotate the camera.
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| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL, you can angle the camera up and down.
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| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL+SHIFT, then you can move the camera without turning or zooming.
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| − | | |
| − | # LINKING CORRECTLY (CTRL+L)
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| − | It really matters what object you SELECT LAST, when you are linking together objects/prims. Because the ROOT of the item selected last, will become the root of the WHOLE linked object when you finish linking it.
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| − | | |
| − | Do NOT have the EDIT LINKED on when linking together. So to say it simply: FIRST select all the items/prims you are going to attach. Then select LAST the item that holds the ROOT or will become the root.
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| − | | |
| − | # UN-LINKING CORRECTLY (CTRL+SHIFT+L)
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| − | Unlinking is opposite linking, and will take items apart. To avoid a simple error that results in your object falling apart and becoming millions of un-linked prims, you should make sure that you do NOT have the entire object selected.
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| − | | |
| − | You should always have EDIT LINKED on when selecting prims you want to remove from your object, since "edit linked" lets you select single prims of a linked object and modify them specially.
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| − | | |
| − | You will know that you un-linked it, when the OUTLINE of anything you had selected while un-linking becomes YELLOW. If the outline of EVERYTHING in your object becomes yellow, you just took your item apart.
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| − | __________________________________
| |
| − | Brought to you by MyraMidnight
| |
| − | </pre> | |
| − | ===Part 1===
| |
| − | <pre>This is a TUTORIAL of how to mod a head to work with the Seawolf Dragons. It should work as a guide for any head mod. | |
| − | | |
| − | This notecard is a part of a pack that teaches you how to combine Seawolf Dragon, and Kinzart Night Fury (Midnight/Dawn dragon), to create a feral Night Fury, so some extra NIGHT FURY NOTES refer to that specific mod.
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| − |
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| − | YOU WILL NEED:
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| − | A head and jaw to mod (NEW head/jaw)
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| − | A Seawolf head and jaw (OLD head/jaw)
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| − |
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | Useful Notes:
| |
| − | | |
| − | # LIVERIES:
| |
| − | For those who don't know it yet, liveries is the color system you use to color your dragon via the HUD. Liveries actually means uniform. Its fun to know that the liveries you save on your HUD get saved on a server, so even if you get a fresh new HUD, you keep your liveries.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # BACKUP SAVE:
| |
| − | If you select all the objects of the head together (using SHIFT key to select multiple objects) before linking, and TAKE COPY, you can make a backup of the setup without linking. The icon in the inventory should be a box with a missing piece in it, unlike a single object being a whole box.So when you rez it, you don't have to position them all again. Good as a backup before linking, if something goes wrong or not like you were planning.
| |
| − | | |
| − | So make a backup before linking, to be on the safe notes, its harder to take it apart afterwards. And ALWAYS STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING as some scripts behave different after linking and will mess up things in ways you might not have expected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # CAMERA CONTROLS:
| |
| − | For those who don't know how to move the camera in the many ways it can, then this is a good trick to know. You can use this to move your camera into the object to help you select things not visible from the outside. To do this, do not look at the object you want to go into, but someplace else (you cant seem to be able to see into the object you focus on).
| |
| − | | |
| − | ALT key will let you zoom the camera with the mouse and rotate the camera.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL, you can angle the camera up and down.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL+SHIFT, then you can move the camera without turning or zooming.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # INVISIBLE THINGS:
| |
| − | Some things are invisible or transparent and may be hard to select or even avoid when you cant see them correctly. To enable you to see transparent, simply press CTRL+ALT+T (and again to turn it off).
| |
| − | | |
| − | # LINKING CORRECTLY (CTRL+L)
| |
| − | It really matters what object you SELECT LAST, when you are linking together objects/prims. Because the ROOT of the item selected last, will become the root of the WHOLE linked object when you finish linking it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | Do NOT have the EDIT LINKED on when linking together. So to say it simply: FIRST select all the items/prims you are going to attach. Then select LAST the item that holds the ROOT or will become the root.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # UN-LINKING CORRECTLY (CTRL+SHIFT+L)
| |
| − | Unlinking is opposite linking, and will take items apart. To avoid a simple error that results in your object falling apart and becoming millions of un-linked prims, you should make sure that you do NOT have the entire object selected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | You should always have EDIT LINKED on when selecting prims you want to remove from your object, since "edit linked" lets you select single prims of a linked object and modify them specially.
| |
| − | | |
| − | You will know that you un-linked it, when the OUTLINE of anything you had selected while un-linking becomes YELLOW. If the outline of EVERYTHING in your object becomes yellow, you just took your item apart.
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 1 (resizing)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Wear your Seawolf avatar, and your NEW head and jaw, position it and resize until you are happy with it. The position of it is irrelevant at this stage since scripts will determine the position of both head and jaw once we are finished with this mod. This step is only resize.
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| − |
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| − | Be careful of not having the head too big, or too small, so take a look at the neck from behind also, and any angle, before you're sure.
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| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 2 (determine ROOT PRIM)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez your NEW resized head and jaw on the ground and STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING in them (location of this option depends on viewer, but is often at the top menu under TOOLS, next to WORLD, at least in Phoenix), this prevents annoying things happening due to scripts that change prim shape, such as blinking or moving eyes which might even make you have to start over.
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| − | | |
| − | 2. As you have the head selected in EDIT mode, the ROOT prim will be outlined yellow and everything attached to that root will be outlined blue (there is only one root in any linked object, if the outline color is different). If this root prim is visible (not hidden inside the head), you will want to rez a new prim to link with the head to act as a root prim.
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| − | | |
| − | # HOW TO LINK CORRECTLY:
| |
| − | 3. Do NOT have EDIT LINKED on when linking together objects. Select FIRST the prims you are going to attach/link (the head), and select LAST the prim you are going to attach/link it to (the new root). The root prim for the entire linked set will become the root of the item selected last.
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| − | | |
| − | Its handy, for later STEP 8, to have the root prim outside of the head for easy grab.
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| − | | |
| − | # REASON FOR NEW ROOT PRIM:
| |
| − | The position of the head is determined by the position of the root, so you want to be able to move that prim without worry of disfiguring your head, as well as the fact that the root prim of the jaw WILL loose it's shape to the script, so better make a root prim that is not a part of the outer shape of the avatar. Remember, the new root should have the yellow outline if you did it correctly.
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| − | | |
| − | # NIGHT FURY NOTES:
| |
| − | The NEW JAW already has a ROOT prim that is not a part of the outer shape, so you do NOT need to create a new root for it. But for the NEW HEAD you need to create a new root prim, since the face-prim itself is the root of the head.
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| − | | |
| − | # NOTICE:
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| − | When you create a new object, it will automatically attach to your right hand as a default attachment point, UNLESS you use "ATTACH TO" the body part you want it to attach to. It will remember the point next time you WEAR or ADD.
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| − | | |
| − | So when you create a NEW ROOT, its a new prim that has no set attachment point.
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| − | HEAD: Attaches to SKULL
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| − | JAW: attaches to MOUTH.
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| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 3 (linking the eyes)============
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| − | | |
| − | Since the Night-Fury eyes are not linked to the head itself, we'll have to link it.
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| − | | |
| − | 1. REZ both eyes, and select them TOGETHER so you can resize them equally. Try fitting them into the head. Focus on only one eye (since both will be same size while you have both selected together), and then position the other when the size is right.
| |
| − | | |
| − | To avoid being CROSS EYED, you can set the eye Dialation as big as it gets (big puppy-dog eyes, using the Night-Fury HUD), and then look at the face from the front (from the nose) and make it seem as the eyes are looking forward at you, without having them staring at the nose too much, which seems cross-eyed. To avoid that, don't let the black of the eye go all the way into the corner of the eye when you look at it from the sides.
| |
| − | | |
| − | Of course you need the eyes to have their scripts running to change them with the HUD.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. MAKE A BACKUP! by selecting both eyes, and the head (see notes at top of notecard).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 3. Now select the EYES, and THEN select the HEAD last. Link them using CTRL+L
| |
| − | | |
| − | As always, the order of which you select items for linking matters for the root prim. Since the root of the entire linked object WILL be the root of the item selected LAST.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 4 (getting the scripts)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez the OLD head and jaw (Seawolf, any type), and copy these scripts from it into your inventory.
| |
| − | | |
| − | #NOTE: the H1, H2, H3 refers to the different head variants that you get with the Seawolf Dragons, so each head type has their own script for the facial expressions and outer detail. Since your modified head will not react to these, it does not matter which head type the script is from. In this case I used the Head type 1.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2a. COPY these scripts from the HEAD:
| |
| − | MD-J H1 Head up/down
| |
| − | livery-head (if you want to livery enable it)
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2b. COPY these scripts for the JAW:
| |
| − | MD-J-H1 jaw up/down
| |
| − | MD-J H1 jaw talk
| |
| − | livery-jaw (if you want to livery enable it)
| |
| − | Jaw Talker
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============ Step 5 (placing the scripts)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Select the NEW head and edit. Under the CONTENT tab you can see the scripts and any item that is already within the object. Sometimes there are scripts in there specific for that head, for blinking eyes, facial expressions and so on. You will most likely want to keep the right scripts, so as always MAKE A BACKUP of the NEW head, and it's scripts.
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | HEAD:
| |
| − | 2a. Place the Scripts you copied from the OLD head, into the CONTENT of the NEW head. If you select the whole item, it will only display the content of the root, not the other linked parts. To see those scripts placed in those linked parts, you will need to use edit linked. You'll know if you have edit linked active, if you can only select single prims of the object.
| |
| − | | |
| − | JAW:
| |
| − | 2b. If the NEW jaw is simple with no fancy affects (like the head uses blinking and expressions) then you can just REMOVE ALL scripts from the jaw. But just in case, MAKE COPY of the scripts. Then place the scripts you copied from the OLD jaw, into the CONTENT of the NEW jaw.
| |
| − | | |
| − | #NIGHT FURY NOTES:
| |
| − | 3a. For the Night-Fury HEAD, the scripts controlling the facial expressions, blinking and hiding teeth, should have stayed in the face-prim, and therefor not be in the new root, so the root should be empty. If you want to lessen the scripts, feel free to remove the GLOW and COLOR script in the face, since you will use the Livery system to color the mouth.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 3b. For the Night-Fury JAW, there are TWO SCRIPTS you might want to keep, that enable you to move the tongue, and hide the teeth (be toothless), then do not delete these:
| |
| − | | |
| − | Alpha System
| |
| − | Alpha System (tongue)
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 6 (livery enable, OPTIONAL)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | #This step is for Livery Enable (color with Seawolf HUD), skip if you are not going to Livery Enable.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Use EDIT LINKED to be able to select single prims of the whole head, and change the PRIM NAME in the GENERAL tab (the description does nothing) according to the list below, depending on how you want each part to color:
| |
| − | | |
| − | s - skin/scales
| |
| − | y - tongue
| |
| − | h - horns
| |
| − | e - ears or fins
| |
| − | c - teeth
| |
| − | m - mouth
| |
| − | | |
| − | SEE THE SEAWOLF CUSTOM PRIM GUIDE for more information about the liveries: http://www.seawolf-monsters.com/wiki/Dragon/CustomPrimwork
| |
| − | | |
| − | # NIGHT FURY NOTES:
| |
| − | To be able to move the tongue and hide the teeth, then DO NOT RENAME the TEETH or TONGUE. But the mouth/gums can be renamed 'm' so you can color those with the Livery system. Mouth is one of the few liveries that do not change the texture, only color.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you are like me, and want to replace the teeth with something sharper, and still hide the teeth, simply rename each tooth [showteeth[ (just like that).
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 7 (Refresh and Turn on scripts)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. REFRESH SCRIPTS and then SET TO RUN
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Now wear the head and lower your neck (neck-toggle, with either HUD or gesture), to see if the head moves with neck correctly.
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 8 (positioning the head/jaw)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | There are two ways you can do this step, the easy and the hard way.
| |
| − | WHILE WEARING THE HEAD/JAW. Do the HEAD first and then the JAW.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # EASY WAY:
| |
| − | 1a. Select the head, then use EDIT LINKED to un-select the root prim (use the SHIFT key), then move the head like you want it. Do not let go of the head until you are sure its positioned perfect, unless you want to fish out the root prim again, which will be hidden inside the head.
| |
| − | | |
| − | You can angle the camera (see notes at top of Notecard), without letting go of the selected prims, which is quite a nice feature.ot prim (use the SHIFT key), then move the head like you want it. Do not let go of the head until you are sure its positioned perfect, unless you want to fish out the root prim again, which will be hidden inside the head.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # HARD WAY:
| |
| − | 1b. Before doing this step, you might want to have the NECK TOGGLE gesture active, so you will be able to see results of your adjustments without letting go of the prims you have selected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you do not have it activated, try searching your inventory for "F3 - MD Neck Toggle" which is a gesture that comes with Seawolf avatars, as well as other gestures for sitting and change breath type (its fun to know). As the gesture name suggest, the F3 key triggers it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2b. Use EDIT LINKED to only select the ROOT prim. Every time you move it, use the NECK TOGGLE gesture to move the head, which will show you the new position of the head, according to how you moved the root prim. Because moving the whole head (with root and all) will be pointless since the script will put the head in its place when you wear it again, or move the neck.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 3b. Using the Neck Toggle gesture does not make you loose your grip on the root prim you have selected, so its a nice feature being able to move neck (without the HUD, since you cant touch it while in edit mode), and still have the root prim selected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | REPEAT FOR THE JAW.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============EXTRA STEP (rotating textures: optimal)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | #This is for those who LIVERY ENABLED (Step 6) their mod.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Recolor your avatar using the Preset Liveries on the first page of the HUD. Select something that has obvious patterns and sides (like the TAXI/CHECKERS skin texture), so you will notice how the texture turns however you move it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Detach and REZ your NEW head (and jaw if needed), and it should have the obvious textures on it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 3. Select the head in EDIT mode and use EDIT LINKED. Select the prim you want to rotate the texture on.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 4. Go into the TEXTURE tab of the edit window, and you will find your texture properties. Usually you only have to adjust the OFFSET and maybe the ROTATION. Do not mess with the other unless you are sure and at least have a BACKUP of the head before doing so.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you want to be more advanced, feel free to mess with the other properties as well,
| |
| − | | |
| − | __________________________________________
| |
| − | Tutorial written by MyraMidnight</pre>
| |
| − | ===Part 2 (flexy)=== | |
| − | <pre>This notecard is a part of a pack that teaches you how to combine Seawolf Dragon, and Kinzart Night Fury (Midnight/Dawn dragon), to create a feral Night Fury.
| |
| − | | |
| − | As always, work with a copy so you have a BACKUP before you link/unlink, in case something does not go quite like you planned or should have.
| |
| − | | |
| − | YOU WILL NEED:
| |
| − | A Seawolf Dragon HIP
| |
| − | A night fury FLEXY tail (from the kinzart's Midnight/Dawn dragon)
| |
| − | | |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − |
| |
| − | # LIVERIES:
| |
| − | For those who don't know it yet, liveries is the color system you use to color your dragon via the HUD. Liveries actually means uniform. Its fun to know that the liveries you save on your HUD get saved on a server, so even if you get a fresh new HUD, you keep your liveries.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # BACKUP SAVE:
| |
| − | If you select all the objects of the head together (using SHIFT key to select multiple objects) before linking, and TAKE COPY, you can make a backup of the setup without linking. The icon in the inventory should be a box with a missing piece in it, unlike a single object being a whole box.So when you rez it, you don't have to position them all again. Good as a backup before linking, if something goes wrong or not like you were planning.
| |
| − | | |
| − | So make a backup before linking, to be on the safe notes, its harder to take it apart afterwards. And ALWAYS STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING as some scripts behave different after linking and will mess up things in ways you might not have expected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # CAMERA CONTROLS:
| |
| − | For those who don't know how to move the camera in the many ways it can, then this is a good trick to know. You can use this to move your camera into the object to help you select things not visible from the outside. To do this, do not look at the object you want to go into, but someplace else (you cant seem to be able to see into the object you focus on).
| |
| − | | |
| − | ALT key will let you zoom the camera with the mouse and rotate the camera.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL, you can angle the camera up and down.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL+SHIFT, then you can move the camera without turning or zooming.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # INVISIBLE THINGS:
| |
| − | Some things are invisible or transparent and may be hard to select or even avoid when you cant see them correctly. To enable you to see transparent, simply press CTRL+ALT+T (and again to turn it off).
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 1 (removing seawolf tail prims)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | # SEE TRANSPARENT:
| |
| − | It is good to enable seeing transparent, since the Seawolf Tail is made up of several prims that are transparent or invisible (the decal layer and the armor scales, which are only visible from below, so people tend to forget that). To enable transparent view, use CTRL+ALT+T (and again to disable it).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez your Seawolf HIP, and STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING (location of this option depends on viewer, but is often at the top menu under TOOLS, next to WORLD, at least in Phoenix).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Now use EDIT LINKED to select only specific prims of the tail to unlink. To unlink, use CTRL+SHIFT+L (there is also a LINK/UNLINK button in the edit menu under OBJECT)
| |
| − | | |
| − | What should be left, is the hips, armor scales and spikes (those you can hide with the HUD).
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 2 (linking new tail)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez your Night-Fury flexy tail, and resize it so it will be good size.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. When you have positioned the tail to fit with the hips, and maybe adjusted the armor scales and spikes to look right with the new tail. Link it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | LINKING CORRECTLY:
| |
| − | 3. Select the tail first, and THEN the hips. Use CTRL+L to link them together. The hips should keep being the root prim if you did it right, as the root of the item selected last, becomes the root for the entire object.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 4. Use EDIT LINKED and select the flexy tail, and go into the FEATURES tab, where you'll find the flexy path preference. Lower the SOFTNESS of the tail to 2, rather than 3. This will make your tail look more normal. Do the same for the tail-fins, but you need to have the SAME setting for all three flexy prims, else they wont move as one whole.
| |
| − | | |
| − | REFRESH SCRIPTS and SET SCRIPTS TO RUN.
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 3 (livery enable, OPTIONAL)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | #You CAN livery enable your flexy tail, but its rather limited, since you will have to MANUALLY color the tail-fins. | |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Select the tail prim (the center of the tail) and name it 's' for skin livery. This will change it's color according to the Liveries. DO NOT name the tail-fin prims. You will need to manually color the tail-fans, which you can do under TEXTURES tab. There you find COLOR, but do not touch the texture.
| |
| − | | |
| − | #REASON for tail-fins not being livery:
| |
| − | Most of the livery options also change the texture, meaning you will not have a fin anymore, but a solid texture. If you rename the prim to work with liveries, you will most likely loose your texture. So don't do it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | REFRESH SCRIPTS
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | Tutorial written by myramidnight resident</pre>
| |
| − | | |
| − | ===Part 2 (Prim)=== | |
| − | <pre>This notecard is a part of a pack that teaches you how to combine Seawolf Dragon, and Kinzart Night Fury (Midnight/Dawn dragon), to create a feral Night Fury.
| |
| − | | |
| − | As always, work with a copy so you have a BACKUP before you link/unlink, in case something does not go quite like you planned or should have.
| |
| − | | |
| − | YOU WILL NEED:
| |
| − | A Seawolf Dragon HIP
| |
| − | A night fury FLEXY tail (from the kinzart's Midnight/Dawn dragon)
| |
| − | | |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − |
| |
| − | # LIVERIES:
| |
| − | For those who don't know it yet, liveries is the color system you use to color your dragon via the HUD. Liveries actually means uniform. Its fun to know that the liveries you save on your HUD get saved on a server, so even if you get a fresh new HUD, you keep your liveries.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # BACKUP SAVE:
| |
| − | If you select all the objects of the head together (using SHIFT key to select multiple objects) before linking, and TAKE COPY, you can make a backup of the setup without linking. The icon in the inventory should be a box with a missing piece in it, unlike a single object being a whole box.So when you rez it, you don't have to position them all again. Good as a backup before linking, if something goes wrong or not like you were planning.
| |
| − | | |
| − | So make a backup before linking, to be on the safe notes, its harder to take it apart afterwards. And ALWAYS STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING as some scripts behave different after linking and will mess up things in ways you might not have expected.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # CAMERA CONTROLS:
| |
| − | For those who don't know how to move the camera in the many ways it can, then this is a good trick to know. You can use this to move your camera into the object to help you select things not visible from the outside. To do this, do not look at the object you want to go into, but someplace else (you cant seem to be able to see into the object you focus on).
| |
| − | | |
| − | ALT key will let you zoom the camera with the mouse and rotate the camera.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL, you can angle the camera up and down.
| |
| − | | |
| − | If you hold ALT+CTRL+SHIFT, then you can move the camera without turning or zooming.
| |
| − | | |
| − | # INVISIBLE THINGS:
| |
| − | Some things are invisible or transparent and may be hard to select or even avoid when you cant see them correctly. To enable you to see transparent, simply press CTRL+ALT+T (and again to turn it off).
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 1 (removing seawolf tail prims)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | # SEE TRANSPARENT:
| |
| − | It is good to enable seeing transparent, since the Seawolf Tail is made up of several prims that are transparent or invisible (the decal layer and the armor scales, which are only visible from below, so people tend to forget that). To enable transparent view, use CTRL+ALT+T (and again to disable it).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez your Seawolf HIP, and STOP SCRIPTS FROM RUNNING (location of this option depends on viewer, but is often at the top menu under TOOLS, next to WORLD, at least in Phoenix).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Now use EDIT LINKED to select only specific prims of the tail to unlink. To unlink, use CTRL+SHIFT+L (there is also a LINK/UNLINK button in the edit menu under OBJECT)
| |
| − | | |
| − | What should be left, is the hips, armor scales and spikes (those you can hide with the HUD).
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 2 (linking new tail)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez your Night-Fury flexy tail, and resize it so it will be good size.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. When you have positioned the tail to fit with the hips, and maybe adjusted the armor scales and spikes to look right with the new tail. Link it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | LINKING CORRECTLY:
| |
| − | 3. Select the tail first, and THEN the hips. Use CTRL+L to link them together. The hips should keep being the root prim if you did it right, as the root of the item selected last, becomes the root for the entire object.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 4. Use EDIT LINKED and select the flexy tail, and go into the FEATURES tab, where you'll find the flexy path preference. Lower the SOFTNESS of the tail to 2, rather than 3. This will make your tail look more normal. Do the same for the tail-fins, but you need to have the SAME setting for all three flexy prims, else they wont move as one whole.
| |
| − | | |
| − | REFRESH SCRIPTS and SET SCRIPTS TO RUN.
| |
| − | | |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 3 (livery enable, OPTIONAL)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | #You CAN livery enable your flexy tail, but its rather limited, since you will have to MANUALLY color the tail-fins.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Select the tail prim (the center of the tail) and name it 's' for skin livery. This will change it's color according to the Liveries. DO NOT name the tail-fin prims. You will need to manually color the tail-fans, which you can do under TEXTURES tab. There you find COLOR, but do not touch the texture.
| |
| − | | |
| − | #REASON for tail-fins not being livery:
| |
| − | Most of the livery options also change the texture, meaning you will not have a fin anymore, but a solid texture. If you rename the prim to work with liveries, you will most likely loose your texture. So don't do it.
| |
| − | | |
| − | REFRESH SCRIPTS
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | Tutorial written by myramidnight resident</Pre>
| |
| − | | |
| − | ===Part 3===
| |
| − | <pre>This notecard is a part of a pack that teaches you how to combine Seawolf Dragon, and Kinzart Night Fury (Midnight/Dawn dragon), to create a feral Night Fury.
| |
| − | | |
| − | As always, work with a copy so you have a BACKUP before you link/unlink, in case something does not go quite like you planned or should have.
| |
| − | | |
| − | YOU WILL NEED:
| |
| − | A Night Fury Prim Tail hip (Stage2b notecard)
| |
| − | A Seawolf Dragon chest
| |
| − | The VISIBLE ON AIR scripts (included when Tutorial is bought, found at marketplace or vendor)
| |
| − |
| |
| − | __________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | # LIVERIES:
| |
| − | For those who don't know it yet, liveries is the color system you use to color your dragon via the HUD. Liveries actually means uniform. Its fun to know that the liveries you save on your HUD get saved on a server, so even if you get a fresh new HUD, you keep your liveries.
| |
| − | | |
| − | __________________________________
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 1 (replacing livery scripts)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Rez the Seawolf Dragon CHEST, and get the LIVERY-CHEST script from it. This is so you can make the tail-fins color like the wing membrane (since the livery-hips dont know that livery).
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Rez your Night-Fury PRIM tail and REPLACE the LIVERY-HIP with the LIVERY-CHEST script, so you will only have one livery script in the tail.
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 2 (livery enable)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. Use EDIT LINKED to select single prims of the PRIM tail, and rename the prims according to the list below, depending on how you want them to color with the livery system.
| |
| − | | |
| − | s - skin
| |
| − | d - decal/tattoos
| |
| − | wl - wing membrane left side
| |
| − | wr - wing membrane right side
| |
| − | | |
| − | Left and right does not matter much at all.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. The tail-fins should be named 'wl' or 'wr. (both names color the same). There are actually 8 tail fins, as there are four spread for flight, and four folded for on the ground. To make them show/hide according to your status (flying or not) and be livery enabled, there are scripts included with the set when bought. If you wish to skip that, simply unlink either pair so you wont have four of them in your way.
| |
| − | | |
| − | 3. To make a tattoo layer, you have to copy the tail prim (best way by unlinking it first from the rest) and then make it just big enough to overlap the tail. Name this 'd' so it'll turn transparent with the decal/tattoos when coloring with the Seawolf Dragon HUD. See Stage4.
| |
| − | | |
| − |
| |
| − | | |
| − | Use the Seawolf Dragon Custom primwork guide for more info
| |
| − | http://www.seawolf-monsters.com/wiki/Dragon/CustomPrimwork
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 3 (making the Livery tail work)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. follow the 'Visible on Air' instruction notecard.
| |
| − | | |
| − |
| |
| − | | |
| − | ============STEP 4 (Refresh and Finish)============
| |
| − | | |
| − | 1. REFRESH SCRIPTS and SET SCRIPTS TO RUN
| |
| − | | |
| − | 2. Wear and Enjoy.
| |
| − | _________________________________________
| |
| − | Tutorial written by MyraMidnight
| |
| − | Scripts made by scaleskin
| |
| − | </pre>
| |
| − | | |
| − | ===Part 4===
| |
| − | <pre></pre>
| |
